RV A/C Troubleshooting Guide: What to Check Before Calling an RV Tech
- Jul 9
- 4 min read
Updated: Aug 25
When your RV air conditioner stops working, starts making noise, or blows hot air instead of cool, it’s not just frustrating, it can make your entire camping trip miserable! This guide walks you through the most common A/C problems RV owners run into and how to fix them before calling in a professional.
RV A/C Won’t Turn On
You hit the thermostat and get nothing. No fan, no compressor, no signs of life. Here’s where to start:
Check shore power with a multimeter to confirm voltage
Look for a tripped breaker or blown fuse
Inspect the thermostat wiring and connections
Verify power at the control board if accessible
These RV A/C troubleshooting steps can help you isolate the issue and avoid guessing, and the video walks you through each one in detail.
RV A/C Turns On But Isn’t Cooling
If the fan is running but the RV still feels like an oven, the problem is often airflow-related:
Clean or replace dirty filters that block return air
Check the ductwork for gaps, crushed sections, or a loose plenum divider
Inspect rooftop coils—dirty coils cause the system to overheat and lose efficiency
Measure amp draw on the compressor if you suspect deeper issues
These simple RV A/C troubleshooting checks can restore cooling performance without replacing the unit, and this video walks you through each one step by step.
RV A/C Keeps Tripping the Breaker
If the A/C is overloading your electrical system, here’s what to inspect:
Dirty evaporator or condenser coils that force the unit to draw more amps
Weak or failing capacitors that can’t start the compressor and fan motor
Old or undersized breakers that trip too early, especially under heat stress
Low shore power voltage during peak usage hours
This RV A/C troubleshooting video explains how understanding amp draw under strain can help you catch problems early.
RV A/C Making Strange Noises
Squealing, rattling, or hissing noises are signs something’s going wrong inside your unit.
Squealing sounds often point to bad fan motor bearings. Spin the fan by hand to check for grinding or resistance.
Rattling and vibration might be caused by loose fan blades or worn isolators under the fan or compressor.
Hissing or flapping could mean foil tape has come loose inside the ductwork. Reseal any gaps using proper HVAC foil tape.
Catching these issues early can help prevent more expensive failures later, and this video shows you exactly what to listen for and where to look.
Want more videos about RV air conditioners? Click here to watch our full YouTube playlist on RV A/C troubleshooting and maintenance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Frequently Asked Question #1:
My RV A/C unit has water dripping from it, why does it do this?
Answer:
Sometimes it is just caused by running the fan on low speed in humid areas. If you run the fan on high, it will move the air faster, cool better, and have less condensation inside the ductwork.
This is usually caused by the A/C unit short-cycling the air inside the ductwork plenum. This occurs when there is a gap in the ductwork that separates the air entering from the air exiting. This can be fixed by resealing the ductwork with foil tape. Another common cause can be a plugged drip pan that catches the condensation water from the evaporator coil.
Frequently Asked Question #2:
Can you recharge an RV A/C unit if it's low on Freon?
Answer:
Not like a car or a house unit. Most RV A/Cs (like Coleman, Dometic, GE or Furrion) are sealed systems that aren’t designed to be recharged. If they’re low on refrigerant, it usually means there’s a leak, and repairing or recharging it often costs more than replacing the whole unit.
No service ports – the system is factory-sealed.
Not meant to be opened – manufacturers don’t offer recharge kits.
Leaking units = replace – if Freon is low, the coil is likely compromised.
Recharging is a patch – even if a tech adds a port and recharges it, the leak will likely return.
Frequently Asked Question #3:
Why won’t my A/C turn on when my battery is dead but I’m plugged into shore power?
Answer:
The A/C needs 12-volt power to run the thermostat and control board. If your converter is not working or a fuse is blown, your 12-volt system may be down. Even with shore power, the A/C will not turn on without that 12-volt power.
Links from All Videos
Here’s a list of all the links we mentioned throughout the videos, so you don’t have to go searching through the YouTube video descriptions. Everything you need is right here for easy access.
RV Airflow (Dometic Brisk Air II, Evolution, Blizzard A/C)
RV Airflow Coleman Mach 3, 10, or 15 A/C
RV Airflow Furrion Chill A/C
RV Airflow GE Roof Top Mounted A/C
Our Amazon Storefront (See tools and products used)
About Us
Mobile RV Tech Services specializes in onsite RV repair, maintenance, and inspections. We service your RV at your home, campground, or storage unit in Iosco county in Michigan from April 15 - December 15, and Houston, Texas, from January 1 - April 1.
Comments